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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.